Mystery Starter Problem |
Mystery Starter Problem |
Jun 29, 2015 - 10:26 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 18, '15 From Minnesota Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
So I am posting on behalf of my dad. We recently purchased a 95gt(2.2L) and it has some starting issues. It starts incredibly sporadically. Some days it will start, other days it won't at all. I am getting good cranking, and spark is the issue here. We have hooked up a gauge to test for spark and when it gets spark it will start. Sometimes we hook up to check for spark and when there is no spark and it won't start. We have replaced the distributor, igniter, plug wire, fuel pump and timing belt. The CEL is throwing code 12 if that helps. We honestly can't figure this out, we took it to a mechanic and he said we needed a new distributor, so we replaced it and it started right away, but now only a few days later its back to the same problem of inconsistent spark. If anyone has ever encountered this or has any ideas it would be awesome!
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Jun 30, 2015 - 1:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 3, '13 From Missourah Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I believe code 12 means Either the Distributor is not putting out a signal for the computer to read, Or the computer cant see the signal the dizzy is putting out.
http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/ find the 94-95 service manual here and check the link on trouble shooting with codes. http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/94_6gmanua...odes%202.2L.pdf So the culprit may be the 20 year old connector plug that hooks to the distributor, the four-wire plug is the one that sends the cam signal to the computer. You can get one off of a Camry at a scrap yard. The 4 cylinder Camry from any 90's model is the same 2.2L as the GT Celica. The plug is exactly the same but the Color of wires they are using is not, so you have to match the wires to the original Positions they were in and not necissarily to the same color as the ones on the Camry plug. You can just cut it off the motor in the scrap yard with 5" or so of wire still attached. So either you have a bad connection there Or the ECU itself is toasted. Its up under the center of the dash on the floor. You can unplug it and take it out pretty easily and then open it up and inspect the components with a flashlight. Often what you see is some kind of goop busted out of one of the capacitors on the board. If you see this then you can be sure the computer is your problem. If so I would suggest combing the part-out threads on here and find somebody who's getting rid of an Ecu for the 5sfe, you'll need to match whether your manual or auto transmission, Cali or Fed emissions. Other than that its just plug and play, no programming needed. I got one from some guy for $60 shipped. http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthrea...e-14-I-Got-Fire here is the thread from when i had the same problem last year. you may need to be a Celicatech.com member to see it. This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Jun 30, 2015 - 1:20 PM -------------------- Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
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Jul 28, 2015 - 11:43 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 24, '08 From Canoga Park CA. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I used to have starting problems it was my temp sensor was cracked(it looked ok) and would not give a signal or proper signal to engine . I have a 97 it was on the right of the two sensors where the top radiator hose meets the engine.
Since I replaced it it has started for 2 years. |
Jul 31, 2015 - 6:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 18, '15 From Minnesota Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
**Update**
So I pulled the ECU and it was toast. We just replaced the ECU today and it will fire and start but then it dies immediately. This is the first time it has fired in a long time so I am optimistic, just wondering if anyone has any ideas why it would die immediately. I think it might be a fuel issue but I am not sure. |
Aug 4, 2015 - 6:11 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 3, '13 From Missourah Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I'd make sure all of the ground wires are in place, particularly the one that should be connecting the firewall to the intake manifold. This is also where the wirelimb from the ecu exits the firewall and grounds to the intake manifold. Otherwise check the distributor and igniter, the link to the service manual above has a step-by-step trouble shooting procedure.
Are you still getting a code? -------------------- Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
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Aug 4, 2015 - 6:35 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 23, '12 From Warrior, AL Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Code 12 is the distributor, usually it means the insides look like copper spaghetti. So I'd check that before doing anything else.
-------------------- 2001 Miata LS 5-speed
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Aug 4, 2015 - 8:01 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 25, '15 From United States Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
Before you take off the dizzy make a straight line across the metal parts do you won't have to adjust timing when reinstalling just line up the marks! Or if you get a new dizzy just measure the Marks and sign em up! Saves time and effort.
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Aug 5, 2015 - 12:29 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 23, '12 From Warrior, AL Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Just have to take the cap off to look.
-------------------- 2001 Miata LS 5-speed
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Aug 5, 2015 - 8:18 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 20, '09 From Winnipeg Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
x2 on Dizzy, had a code 12 and replaced the dizzy and it solved my issues. Although my car was still running.
-------------------- -Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load. 1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver 1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater 1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead My Celica! |
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