3S-GE Beams Clutch Questions Options

[G4Frost]

I have a 3SGE Beams in my SS-III that I presume has the stock JDM clutch in it

My clutch feels like its on its last legs its not slipping in everyday use but if I do put my foot down it doesn't slip but it does stink like burnt clutch sometimes and it releases and grabs right at the very top of the clutch pedal pedal. So what I was wondering if when I do have to replace it if you have any recommendations of what clutch kit to get (as long as it can take a hammering) and whether you think its possible to do in the garage myself or if I should take it into a shop.

and if it is worth getting a clutch kit with a new flywheel and the whole shibang or just get a stock clutch disc and if there are any guides on how to do it as I have never replaced a clutch before.

[Tigawoods]

I have a 3SGE Beams in my SS-III that I presume has the stock JDM clutch in it

My clutch feels like its on its last legs its not slipping in everyday use but if I do put my foot down it doesn't slip but it does stink like burnt clutch sometimes and it releases and grabs right at the very top of the clutch pedal pedal. So what I was wondering if when I do have to replace it if you have any recommendations of what clutch kit to get (as long as it can take a hammering) and whether you think its possible to do in the garage myself or if I should take it into a shop.

and if it is worth getting a clutch kit with a new flywheel and the whole shibang or just get a stock clutch disc and if there are any guides on how to do it as I have never replaced a clutch before.

It can definitely be done at home in the garage with the right tools.

There is a thread on how to remove the trans in the forum. Check it out.

If you dont get a new flywheel its recommended that you get the stock flywheel resurfaced. It shouldn't cost too much for a resurface and since the BEAMS FW is already fairly light, id just stick with that one and have it surfaced.

5SFE aftermarket clutches work, brands? search around and read other peoples experiences with certain brands. I myself have have a SPEC clutch that was on my 5S and now is being used on my BEAMS. I havent had any problem with it and it feels almost stock.

[G4Frost]

I have a 3SGE Beams in my SS-III that I presume has the stock JDM clutch in it

My clutch feels like its on its last legs its not slipping in everyday use but if I do put my foot down it doesn't slip but it does stink like burnt clutch sometimes and it releases and grabs right at the very top of the clutch pedal pedal. So what I was wondering if when I do have to replace it if you have any recommendations of what clutch kit to get (as long as it can take a hammering) and whether you think its possible to do in the garage myself or if I should take it into a shop.

and if it is worth getting a clutch kit with a new flywheel and the whole shibang or just get a stock clutch disc and if there are any guides on how to do it as I have never replaced a clutch before.

It can definitely be done at home in the garage with the right tools.

There is a thread on how to remove the trans in the forum. Check it out.

If you dont get a new flywheel its recommended that you get the stock flywheel resurfaced. It shouldn't cost too much for a resurface and since the BEAMS FW is already fairly light, id just stick with that one and have it surfaced.

5SFE aftermarket clutches work, brands? search around and read other peoples experiences with certain brands. I myself have have a SPEC clutch that was on my 5S and now is being used on my BEAMS. I havent had any problem with it and it feels almost stock.

I Can only seem to find one about fully removing the trans in a 7AFE is that the one you are talking about?7AFE
If so do you recommend taking the whole thing out of the car or replacing it while it is still half connected
and if I do remove the whole thing it should I replace anything like seals at the same time or not worry about them unless they start leaking in the future.
when you say right tools what do you mean. Cause I got the standard wrenches and impact gun and stuff but when it says to pry it will I need a special tool like a pickle fork or just a standard mini crowbar
I will probably need to pick up the Hanes celica guide aswell to give me some tips through it all haha.

Thanks so much for the help

[Jmk91]

Torque wrench is your best friend. Impact snaps older rusty bolts eve nc whenever you are loosing them. I suggest tightening every bolt back to spec or around there. I wouldn't use an impact on anything haha. Just use one to remove my wheels or strut bolts.

This post has been edited by Jmk91: Jan 19, 2016 - 4:41 PM

[G4Frost]

Torque wrench is your best friend. Impact snaps older rusty bolts eve nc whenever you are loosing them. I suggest tightening every bolt back to spec or around there. I wouldn't use an impact on anything haha. Just use one to remove my wheels or strut bolts.

I dont use the impact to take off any non wheel bolts I was just using it as a reference to it being the really only speciality tool I have. I am going down to super cheap today to go pick up a 1/4" torque wrench and probably have to get a 1/2" one aswell.

[Tigawoods]

seems like you have the tools. The engine wont need to be removed just supported with a jack. or a engine support.

you dont really need to remove the drivers side axle. I never have.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=78327

[Smaay]

what transmission do you have, do you have an S series or an E series? OEM clutch is probably your cheapest option. dont get a cheap ebay special. I highly suggest a fidanza flywheel but its not necessary, just re-surface yours.

if you are due for a timing belt, i suggest doing that at the same time, and replacing the water pump. if you need to do those, then i suggest pulling both the engine and trans.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jan 20, 2016 - 10:24 AM

[Rusty]

Nice to see another NZ'er

There is this site here which shows the process on an SS-III, I followed this while doing my SS-II's flywheel & clutch, though it is a pain reinstalling with the subframe. The toyota way is to remove the extractors to give you a bit more room.

http://burialc2.oboroduki.com/clutch/index.html


Options I know are easy to source in NZ
Toyota replacement, TRD disk & cover (I think they're both still available) Exedy, have a look on fortyone if any others. As said above stay away from cheap ebay/trademe ones. Watch that you get the right clutch for your transmission. As some will list is as a '3S-GE superstrut celica clutch' which is suited to the SS-II superstrut with the E56 not the S54 transmission.

Other things
Lightweight flywheel, brands as others have said or Jun lighweight, you could go for the superlight weight if you'd like? Just make sure you buy new flywheel bolts from Toyota when replacing or resurfacing your stock one.
A good time to replace your rear crank seal while you're there.
New throw out bearing from Toyota, remember to grease the fork pivot points to ensure a quiet clutch.
Check all mounts, replace with toyota or solid poly
Check CV boots inner & outer
New gearbox fluid or replace with current fluid?
clutch fluid
labelled bags & a camera so you know where nuts and bolts come from

Tools, something like this to support your engine while the transmission & mounts are out. http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-...-1018510035.htm


Just a note aswell our 'drivers side' is on a different side to other members on here