2GRFE quick notes..., if you are brave enough... Options

[njccmd2002]

It was jan 25, 2011 when this idea came to my mind, now the swap has been running for quite some time, but other issues prevented me from having the car run streets. Including health issues..

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=77646

Not many are fond of the 2gr, because its expensive, and you cannot override the Engine check light, however this engine has changed my perception of my car. (Im afraid of it) lol.

Im not going to tell you how is done, research guoky information over at MR2oc.com and my swap thread. I will post the notes here that will quick reference you. This is not me telling you what to do. Its a reference

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=93458


A) Engine shopping.


The most important part, of the whole process. When i cant tell you what to buy, if you get something cheap, get it. However I myself bought a 2010 highlander engine. And seriously you can buy any engine..

What i learned, was that Probably best option would be a Rav4 engine, because it would simplify your swap and ill explain why.

-------->A1) With or without towing option.


If you are planning to race or track this car, it would not hurt to get the towing option package. And what it is, is simply and added oil cooler and sensor. Some mr2 guys, have welded fittings to this area, to make an external oil cooler. Cool future option to use, and you can leave oem system...

--------->A2) Rubber or Metal oil vvt lines.

Make sure you get an engine with the metal lines. These tend to burst, if they are rubber, and its messy. Most newer engines come with metal lines. After the TSB. that is very simple to look for.


B) Engine ECU


The engine should come with its ECU. Theoretically. However, if you want to simplify the swap. MR2oc guys recommend the 89661-42F00. Comes from a Rav4. The beauty of this Ecu is that is the only 2 plug ecu that does not have immobilizer. All new toyota engines come with immobilizers, and if you dont get the whole package to include keys, ecu, immobilizer ecu, transponder. You are in for a real treat!

If you buy a whole car, again, its easy, you get all the parts. If you have to part the swap, then get this ECU.

As of 05/20/2016 it appears the ecu can be hacked, and immobilizer removed.


C) Engine Harness


This is simple right? well no. If you got the highlander engine like me. And you plan to use the 2 plug ecu, you are in into a wiring nightmare. Period. If you like rainbow spaghetti, go for this.. Thats why i believe the Rav4 Engine is the best for the job. It already is a 2 Plug ecu harness. But there is a catch.

5 Plug ecu harness------> only comes with 3 plugs in the engine harness (Highlander, Avalon, etc) Youll ned to get plugs 4 and 5
2 Plug ECU harness-----> only comes with 1 plug in the engine harness (camry, rav4) youll need to get plug B

If you are using then non immobilized ecu, you will need the 2 plug harness. And you will need the Body harness, (main harness) this is expensive, difficult to get, and hard to find. But you can buy the plug new.

Part number for the plug is

-------> Small Plug 90980-12461 (plug B)

-------> Big Plug 90980-12396 (plug A)

Another part you dont get, and will need. Is the Plug for the pedal. Its also located in the main harness of the car.

C) Pedal


Sounds simple, right. Well not really. Find a pedal with a pig tail, on ebay. And if preference, get a Denso pedal, not CTS. Some swear they last longer. Theoretically they are same. But there are several opinions over this.. Im not going to post links, you can google them

This is something, that will need a custom bracket to be mounted. There is no other way. custom is the way to go...

D) Engine Mount


Well, if you read the first post, and you bought a Rav4 engine, then you will be Golden here. If you bought any other engine, then you need to search for the mounting assembly of a RAV4. This can get expensive because, it not only includes the mount itself, but you need the assembly that mounts to the engine too. And that is where you start spending money.

You can actually get the mount for cheap on ebay and rock auto, but the bracket and assembly. Ive only seen one on ebay, and from the dealership, its not cheap

Technically you can mount the car anyway you prefer. I found that the Rav4 was the easiest. However, you will need a custom bracket from mount to body of the car. Its in my post, and its not hard to do...

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...93458&st=40


E) Headers

You can go cheap, or this is where you spend more money... I opted to buy Guokys headers, why, because racecar, and because it saved me some time from creating my own. Now i do believe these headers will not work with an AWD. So dont buy this if you are planning to go AWD.

If you dont get the headers, you will probably need the Front camry headers, i believe, they run about 200 a piece on ebay. And for few bucks more, you get guokys headers. while he makes them. the Collector pipe is also custom job. And you will make this last. when the engine is in the car. Why? because, you dont want to fabricate, and then realized that piece that goes there, and now its on the way.... lol...

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=96012



Im going to continue to part 2, in another post, so that i can modify and add pictures later if needed...

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 20, 2016 - 3:27 AM

[njccmd2002]

Part 2.. continues from up top...


F) Transmission


Can stress this enough. E153. Some have made the s54 work with the swap. Not sure who, i cant point you out. You can use an E154 and go awd. However the rear exhaust bank, is going to be tricky. If you can make your own header.

Not going to explain the e153. Only thing i will mention, you need to grind in a couple of spots in the engine block, to clear the brackets, and the slave cylinder for the clutch. All was mentioned in my swap. i got like 6 bolts to mate with engine, and the dowel pins. you can search the forums, to see whats needed to use an e153 in a celica, and the axle dilema.


G) Flywheel and transmission

I used fidanza flywheel, and competition clutch. In reality you can choose your own combo here. Southbend, clutchmasters, etc.

Flywheel part number was 130881 but double check.

I am not advertising here, nor I give reviews. But I got my parts from monkeywrench. You can bay anywhere....!!!


H) Coolant system

This is the part that improvement can be made.. I chose, koyo aluminum radiator. Unfortunately this radiator is very thick, and leaves not a whole lot of room for regular fans. I opted for aftermarket fans. Not sure if the OEM radiator / fan combo will yield more space..

The alternator plug and the A/C lines can potentially be in the way, and give you headache.

The Signal from the ECU to the Relays/cooling system will not exist. Because The 2gr uses its own Coolant ecu that triggers this. The relays and the A/C triggers the fans, coupled with the temp sensor on the bottom of the radiator (GT Celica).
Not sure if the Sensor from the ST Celica will do the same..

The Temperature indicator on the Celica gauge, needs a new sensor. Because the 2gr operates via can/bus, the sensor located in the neck of the engine, may be a 2 prong sensor. You need a 3 prong sensor and its plug/pigtail. The 2 plug sensor operates the ECU. The 3 terminal, does the Gauge.

part number for sensor is TBD

part number for plugh is TBD

Radiator hoses:

H1-----------> Radiator upper hose. Used the celica. had to trim, and dilated the end to insert on highlander

H2-----------> Radiator Lower hose. Part highlander --- Part Celica. Combined them both. If there is a better option, we can add that here, and update...

H3-----------> Heater hoses. i went custom...


Radiator cap is supposed to be 16 pounds of pressure.


I) Alternator

This is were you can make another mistake. If you have the ECU for a Rav4, then you need to have the alternator for rav4. If you bought the Rav4 engine, then fear not.

If you buy an alternator, make sure its compatible with the ECU you are running. The Rav for uses RLO signal to the ECU, where as the sienna and highlander use Alt-S to the fuse box. This kept giving me the battery light. And i figured it out months later, after research, and noticing the wiring diagrams.

Any alternator can be made to work, but i dont know, and will not search for how to make this work... lol

J) A/C compressor, a/c lines

Another issue that will come up. the 2gr compressor, has a variable flow valve that some people chose to apply 12 volts to it. Someone found that you can actually use the A/c compressor from a 1GR. Custom lines are a requirement here. I have not completed the steps. you are welcome to tell me your solution.

Custom lines from compressor to the car are required.

The other problem, is that the A/C system for the 2gr, talks via can bus to the ECU to in crease idle. and shut during WOT. This aint going to happen any more. The engine runs ok as reported by some. Unless you want to swap the whole a/c system from the donor car, which will be a pain, and hard, and possibly impossible, just be aware to turn off when you want to have spirited driving.


K) Power Steering

This can get very tricky. You can choose your options. Unfortunately not all 2gr have hydraulic power steering, but they have electric power steering. If Depends which engine you get. If you happen to get a 2gr without power steering, (highlander, rav4), then you can either go 3 ways.

K1--------> plug your rack, this is whats called PS delete. saves weight, gives HP.

K2--------> EPS, electric power steering, usually from MR2 spyder. Wont go into detail here. Im not savvy. Savvy?

K3--------> Get a PS pump from a camry, and an Idle bearing. You will need these two, to use the camry tension belt. (Pump requires chassis clearance). No your lines wont work with your car. Custom lines will be required. There is no way around this. This is where you can get creative. Unfortunately, if you get the RAV4 ECU, it does not recognize the Idle up signal from the pump. Its expecting the signal from the EPS ECU. But the car runs normal, and wont stall engine.

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 17, 2016 - 6:42 AM

[njccmd2002]

L) Engine bay Clearance and Mounting

You have to make way for the engine. Space is privilege here. there are points in the chassis that have to be dented, or cut away, reinforced and painted. You will need a welder, and its trial and error. 2 spots, needed massage. An area for the PS pump, and the rear right corner of the rear head.

-------->Couple spots have to be grinded on the lower engine pan, right on top of the crossmember. This is very easy to spot.

-------->Engine mounts on transmission side, all must be st205 ig you are fitting E153.

-------->Engine mounts on Engine side, Rav4 mount. and custom mount to body adapter. I modified the Rav4, to attach to another spot in the bay. Again, you need a welder.

-------->I have a GT4 hood. Made clearance by cutting a small hole in it, and by rasing the rear the hood with spacers, Im still looking for another solution. Dont lower the Engine. unless you use a dry sump, the oil pan is low..


M) Engine Check light, and Warnings

You have to live with this. LOL. If you need to pass emissions you are toast. Guoky is working on a lotus ecu and harness, with a module to get this working. Visit MR2oc.com. The engine seems to run fine..

Codes you will get are about 6 related with transmission sensors, and 2 or 3 related to evap system.


N) Immobilizer

Unless you get the whole system, i dont suggest you try to build this from different part cars. Unless you have someone with access to the dealer, you own the dealer, its going to give you headaches. That is why most are doing the RAV4 ECU.


O) Wiring

This can be as hard as you make it. dont get a 5 plug harness and convert to a 2 plug ecu. Its a spaghetti nightmare.. You will need to have some knowledge of how relay work, soldering and extending. You need to create a secondary fuse box for relays and for fuses. I got one out of a 90's corolla and made it work.

The relay box for the radiator fans, needs to be relocated.

Im not going to go into detail for wiring. Its like reading a road map. I will make my notes available to anyone that buys a 2gr engine, for a celica swap. but it looks a bit like this...






I have left space for future additions and or corrections, and picture use. Here is my contribution for the Community that slowly strays away from modyfing cars. If I could only see another 2gr celica, then I will feel like It helped someone.

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 17, 2016 - 6:41 AM

[njccmd2002]

Part 4 reserved

[njccmd2002]

updated today 7/4/2016

[enderswift]

way to beast

[bloodMoney]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing the info!

[Smaay]

This is great info and I applaud you for being the first 2GR in a 6th gen. But i digress, This is also excellent motive to do a 1MZ. wiring is so much easier. 3MZ will yield more power but a few more parts are required.

[njccmd2002]

Engines are cheaper and wiring pattern has been established. I will dyno engine soon. But 297 hp is worth it. Even if its at the crank

[Smaay]

i wont argue that.

[rdyzz]

As of current Gouky has hacked the ecu, removing the immobilizer completely. Its a none issue now and should make any ecu choice simple, with addition of rev limit of 7,200 rpm and soon to come speed limiter lift.